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Edinburgh: Malmaison Hotel and Restaurant, Leith

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Veröffentlicht am 14:10 19.01.2008 von penmaiden



The best thing about the Malmaison restaurant is its atmosphere. The dark wood and intimate lighting gives an aura of privacy, as do the well-spaced tables. There's no sense of being too close to other diners, and conversation therefore tends to be free-flowing, rather than hushed. All of this allows for a relaxed, friendly dining experience.
The food is fine, although nothing special, and the price middling-expensive. My excellent sirloin steak with sauce au poivre was £18, which is by no means cheap, but was an excellent cut. I asked for it rare and got it perfectly medium rare, which is always annoying, but it was still tasty. My friend's "Malmaison burger" she pronounced excellent, but another friend ordered seafood shepherd's pie which disappointed her. I tasted it and thought it very flavoursome, but she complained the seafood was overcooked and a little rubbery, and it was too rich to finish.
My major disappointment was with the starter. I ordered a rabbit paté in pastry. The paté turned out to be a terrine, meaning it was solid rather than soft, and the pastry was simply appalling. It had clearly been made much earlier in the day and refrigerated, meaning it was very cold, very stodgy, and tasted of the fridge. Very, very bad. However, the friend with the seafood pie main course had a wonderful haddock and poached egg on toast starter, which was definitely the best of the bunch.
Malmaison's finest touch, in my opinion, is providing two menus - one of which is dedicated solely to local produce. You can enjoy truly local food, such as sausages from Crombie's, haggis from Macsween's, fresh local fish from Campbell's and, of course, cheese from Ian Mellis - although I know for a fact that Mellis sources cheese from all over the country, not just Scotland.
We had a relaxed, friendly, chatty meal. It was a little overpriced, and disappointing in parts, but its overall charm comes more from the ambience than the menu.

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