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There are some animals in this world that just astound you. Here we are, living our day to day lives in what can loosely be referred to as normality, when there are things out there that defy description. When we see these animals, we can't help but be amazed at the adaptations that have made them unique. Yet to them, the very facets that astound us are normal. The animal that makes me think of this is the Royal Albatross, with a wing span of over 3 metres, the intriguing habit of spending three to six years at sea without seeing land, and a top speed when swooping of 115 kilometres per hour.
I had the opportunity to see these creatures up close and personal at the Royal Albatross Centre, about an hours drive from Dunedin in the South Island of New Zealand. The Centre is situated at Taiaroa Heads, at the mouth of the Otago Harbour, and is the home of the only mainland breeding spot of Royal Albatrosses in the world.
The Centre was opened in 1989, and is open every day except Christmas. Guided tours operate that allow you to see the birds mating, and when conditions are right, flying as well.
My tour started at the Info Centre, where I beheld a giant carved pole just inside the entrance. This is Poutokomanawa, and tells the story of the early Maori occupation of the site.
This was followed by a short introductory film about the albatrosses, narrated by Sir David Attenborough. A guide then took our motley group for a short walk to the Observatory, where we saw the birds in action. It was a bit like watching a soap opera, as chicks were fussed over by their parents, teenagers partied, and we felt a little like voyeurs as we watched courtships (with lots of cute animal kissing and cuddling) unfold in front of us. An albatross mates for life, after going through a mating ritual (which, unlike me, doesn't involve alcohol), and the resulting relationship survives long periods of separation at sea (mine never seem to survive the resulting hangover). Albatrosses can live over 60 years, providing they are not killed by predators or fishermen, so their long love lives are unique.
The Centre's other claim to fame is the Armstrong disappearing gun, a 15cm naval defence gun dating back to 1886 (when every New Zealander's biggest fear was invasion from Russia). The gun is designed to pop out of the ground, fire, and then recoil back into its hiding place, and the one here is the only one left in the world that is in its original position, and still fires.
Tours to the colony are restricted from September to November, but still run at reduced hours. A 60 minute tour of the colony costs $30 adults and $15 children. There is also a 90 minute option that also visits the gun emplacement, as well as the albatrosses, and this costs $35 adults and $17 children.
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